The Quest For Real Indian Food (or... It's the Onions' Fault)

Vasu the Terrible triggered this one off with his comment in my last blog.

The quest for ‘good’ Indian food has been a serious one for me in this wonderful city of Toronto. But, truth be told, when I had my first so-called ‘Indian’ meal at Gerard Street 10 years ago, I was horrified. I vowed never to set foot in an Indian restaurant in that street again. I was fresh of the boat, and completely spoilt by Bombay's amazing restaurant food. My expectations were too high.

But now, one of two things has happened. Either I’ve been away too long, don’t know better any more, and have become like the white folk who sit there salivating at that pathetic concoction posing as ‘butter chicken’, but is really cubes of boiled chicken tossed into a wimpy tomato sauce whipped up with a bit of sour cream. But we shall not introduce them to the real thing, shall we? Or they’ll become like me... forever suffering the deprivation, and forever yearning for those strips of range (not grain fattened) chicken meat, grilled to perfection in a in a tandoor, before being tossed sizzling hot into a tomato and butter based gravy rich in onions... and ginger... and garlic... and secret, subtle spices. And then being allowed to simmer for an hour or two on a low fire. The flavours slowly blending in. Served piping hot in an earthen bowl, with a swirl of sour cream (not power-blended in, for crying out loud) and fresh coriander garnishing on top. Oh, they have no idea how they're being short-changed here... the poor, misguided souls.

Or, in 10 years the quality really has improved here in Toronto, as foodies become more discerning, and will no longer put up with the bastardized crap that was being passed off as 'Indian' food on Gerard. In fact, I’ve found some pretty good places in other parts of the city. Siddharth on Yonge-Eglinton being one. And, also Indian Garden. Talking of that intersection, there is also a Bombay Palace in the vicinity. And perhaps even a Host (but that I'm not sure of.)

But I do have a view on why Indian food tastes so different here. It's the onions' fault. They're big. White. Plump. Hefty. Perfect to look at. Symmetrical. And, unfortunately... completely bland. They have no bite. Even your eyes don't water when you chop these onions. How can you make a self-respecting Indian gravy with these sad excuses for onions? And from there the downslide starts till you end up with a sad brown mess with the overpowering smell of jeera powder... a smell that clings to your clothes and hair and leaves your poor white neighbours holding their breath when you meet them in the elevator.

And another thing... universally, all Indian restaurants I’ve been to in Toronto have pathetic décor. (Now that I think of it even in Ottawa and Buffalo. Wow, is that the case throughout North America? Ouch.) No idea why it has be this way. Every time I ask, I'm told they don't make enough money to take care of these niceties. The only place that’s halfway decently done up is the Jaipur Grille, also on Yonge-Eglinton, but a little further south. But it’s expensive and the food not so nice.

Oh well... you can’t have everything, can you?

BTW, a friend (T1 in A Tale of Two Ts), FOB just a about a year now, says she's found a Chettinaad style restaurant out by Guildwood Village in Scarborough... she says it's pretty authentic. Now this I have to see!!

And here's a link to quite an extensive article on the subject of Indian food in America.